Hjelmer Hammeken, a hunter from Ittoqqortoormiit, rows his boat while seal hunting in the Scoresby Sound fjord, or Kangertittivaq as it is called. The photo was taken in March 2015, and at this time of year, the fjord was usually frozen with solid sea ice on which hunters traveled by dog sled.

There was a look of concern on Hjelmer’s face, and when asked if I could grant him one wish, what would he wish for? The answer came immediately: “Give me 25 years back, when the sea ice was thick and reliable.”